Heat Pump Operating Cost Calculator
Calculates the annual electricity use and running cost of an air-source or ground-source heat pump, and the saving against resistance heating.
A 24,000 BTU/h heat pump (about 7 kW) running 8 hours a day for 140 heating days, with a SCOP of 3.5, uses about 2,240 kWh of electricity a year. An electric resistance heater of the same capacity, running the same hours, would use 7,840 kWh to deliver the same heat, so the heat pump needs about 71% less electricity. This calculator reproduces that estimate for your own numbers and shows the two results side by side.
The reason is physics, not marketing. A heat pump does not create heat, it moves heat from the outside air or the ground into the building. A resistance heater converts each kilowatt-hour of electricity into one kilowatt-hour of heat, so its coefficient of performance (COP) is always 1. A heat pump's COP is well above 1 in mild weather and falls as the outdoor temperature drops, which is why seasonal efficiency, not peak efficiency, is the number that drives running costs.
In the United States, heat pumps are rated with HSPF2 for heating and SEER2 for cooling, not with SCOP. If your data sheet lists only HSPF2, divide that figure by 3.412 to get an approximate seasonal COP. The two tests are not identical, so treat the result as an estimate and use the same figure consistently when comparing models.
Local climate changes the answer more than any other input. A ranch house in Texas may need heat on only a limited number of days, while a suburban home in northern Minnesota can run its heat pump through long stretches below freezing. Cold-climate models hold their capacity better at low temperatures, but a larger share of the season is then spent at lower efficiency. NOAA publishes heating degree day data by weather station, which gives a quick, objective measure of how much heating a location needs.
Sizing is the most common mistake. An undersized unit runs flat out on the coldest nights, operates below its rated efficiency, and may still fail to reach the set temperature. Before you compare quotes, ask the installer for a room-by-room load calculation using the Manual J method, which accounts for insulation, air sealing, window area and orientation. That calculation is worth more than any rule of thumb based on floor area.
The explanation below uses US units; the calculator works in either system.
The result updates automatically.
Heats and cools air directly. Simpler installation and lower upfront cost.
Rated thermal output of the unit. 2-bedroom apartment: 5-8 kW. 3-bedroom house: 8-14 kW.
Typical SCOP: 2.8-4.5. The most common choice for apartments and houses.
6-10 h/day is typical for heating from November through March.
In milder climates, around 120-150 days. In colder regions, it can reach 180-210 days.
Check your electric utility bill. Average U.S. rate: $0.22/kWh (2026).
Estimated annual cost
consumption: 2,400 kWh/year
- Annual electricity consumption
- 2,400 kWh
- Average monthly cost
- $105.60
- Equivalent with electric resistance heating
- $1,848.00/year
- Savings vs. resistance heating
- $1,320.00/year (71%)
How it works
Formula
How the calculation works
Heat Pump Running Costs: How the Estimate Works
This calculator estimates how much electricity a heat pump uses over a heating season and what that electricity costs at your rate. It also calculates the electricity a resistance heater of the same capacity would use for the same hours, so the saving appears as a number rather than a general claim. The estimate covers heating only. Cooling, defrost cycles, and the fan energy of a ducted system are not modeled separately, so treat the result as a baseline for comparing options rather than a forecast of your bill.
The formula itself works in metric units, and the calculator converts automatically, so imperial values can be entered directly.
The Formula Step by Step
The calculator uses E = (C × h × d) / SCOP to find the seasonal electricity use, and Cost = E × p to turn that into a cost. C is the nominal heating capacity, h is the operating hours per day, and d is the number of heating days per year. The product C × h × d is the total heat the unit is asked to deliver over the season, expressed in kWh. Dividing by SCOP converts that heat demand into electricity: a unit with a SCOP of 3.5 consumes one unit of electricity for every 3.5 units of heat delivered.
Worked example: a unit rated at 7 kW (about 24,000 BTU/h), run 8 hours a day for 140 days, delivers 7 × 8 × 140 = 7,840 kWh of heat over the season. At a SCOP of 3.5 it consumes 7,840 / 3.5 = 2,240 kWh of electricity. A resistance heater of the same size and hours would consume the full 7,840 kWh, so the heat pump needs 71% less electricity. Multiplying 2,240 kWh by your price per kWh gives the seasonal running cost.
The sensitivity to SCOP is also worth noting. For the same 7,840 kWh of heat, a SCOP of 3.0 needs about 2,613 kWh of electricity and a SCOP of 4.0 needs 1,960 kWh. Moving from 3.0 to 4.0 cuts electricity use by one quarter. This follows directly from the division in the formula and does not depend on any particular product.
Why Seasonal Efficiency Matters More Than Peak Efficiency
Data sheets often quote efficiency at a single test condition, usually a mild outdoor temperature. That figure is useful for comparing units, but it overstates what the unit does across a winter. In the United States, the seasonal heating figure is HSPF2, a rating built from Department of Energy test procedures that average performance over a range of outdoor temperatures. The SCOP in this formula describes the same idea using the European EN 14825 method, which weights each outdoor temperature by how often it occurs in a typical heating season. The two ratings are close in purpose but not identical, which is why the HSPF2 conversion described above is only an approximate bridge between them.
Types of Heat Pump and How They Change the Estimate
Ductless mini-split: the most common choice for homes without ductwork, and for adding heat to single rooms or additions. Each indoor head can be controlled separately, which helps when only some rooms are in use. Because no air is pushed through ducts, there are no duct losses to account for.
Ducted air-source: uses existing ductwork. Heat lost from ducts that run through unconditioned attics, crawlspaces, or garages lowers the effective SCOP, so either enter a lower value or have the ducts sealed and insulated before comparing costs.
Air-to-water: heats water for radiators or radiant floors. It is less common in the United States but suits homes with hydronic heating. Efficiency depends on the water temperature the system needs, and higher water temperatures reduce it, so check the seasonal figure against the supply temperature your system will actually use.
Ground-source (geothermal): draws on the more stable temperature of the ground or a water loop, so its seasonal efficiency tends to hold up better in cold weather. Installation cost is much higher because it requires ground loops or wells, so the running cost saving has to be weighed against that investment. Drilling costs and available incentives vary widely by site and state, which is why no general payback figure is given here.
Cold Climates and Backup Heat
Cold-climate air-source models are designed to keep producing heat at low outdoor temperatures. Their capacity and efficiency still fall as the temperature drops. Many systems also include electric resistance backup heat for the coldest periods or for defrost. Backup heat runs at a COP of 1, so each hour it operates pushes actual consumption above the estimate. If the unit spends a noticeable share of the season on backup heat, enter a lower blended SCOP, or estimate the cold-weather hours separately using the lower efficiency.
Sizing: The Mistake That Costs the Most
A heat pump that is too small for the space runs continuously on the coldest nights, operates near its limits where efficiency is lowest, and may still not reach the set temperature. A unit that is too large has the opposite problem: it cycles on and off, which can reduce comfort and, in cooling mode, leave the air damp. The calculator cannot catch either error, because it takes the capacity you enter as given. Check that capacity against a Manual J room-by-room load calculation, which considers insulation levels, air sealing, window area, orientation, and local design temperatures. Rules of thumb based on floor area ignore most of these factors and are a poor basis for buying equipment.
Electrical Supply and Code Requirements
Heat pumps draw significant current, so they usually need a dedicated circuit. The unit nameplate lists the minimum circuit ampacity and the maximum overcurrent protection. The electrical contractor sizes the circuit, conductors, and disconnect to those values under the National Electrical Code (NFPA 70), as adopted by your state or local jurisdiction. Local amendments vary, so the local permit office is the final authority. This calculator checks energy use only and does not verify electrical capacity.
When to Use This Calculator
Use it to compare running costs between two or more heat pump models using their seasonal efficiency figures, to estimate the saving against existing electric baseboard or wall heaters, or to check whether a quoted running cost is in a reasonable range. It is also useful for seeing how a change in thermostat hours affects the annual bill, since hours enter the formula directly.
When Not to Use It
Do not use it to size equipment, because it accepts the capacity you enter and does not test whether that capacity suits the building. Do not use it for buildings where cooling dominates, since the formula covers heating only. Do not use it to compare against gas heating: the comparison here is against electric resistance only, so a gas furnace or boiler needs its own calculation based on your gas tariff and the appliance's efficiency. For ground-source systems, SCOP depends on loop design and ground conditions, so the figure should come from a system-specific design rather than a generic data sheet.
Common Mistakes
The first mistake is using a peak or 'up to' efficiency figure from marketing material instead of the rated seasonal figure. The second is ignoring backup heat, which can make actual consumption noticeably higher than the estimate. The third is entering calendar days for the heating-day input rather than the number of days heat is actually needed, which overstates consumption in a mild spring or autumn. The fourth is confusing the electricity rate with the total bill. Fixed monthly charges do not change with how much the heat pump runs, so they belong in your budget but not in the running-cost estimate. The fifth is mixing a SCOP from one test with an HSPF2 figure from another without converting them, which can make one model look more efficient than it is.
Standards, Regulators, and Where to Check
In the United States, heating efficiency is rated with HSPF2 and cooling efficiency with SEER2, and the Department of Energy sets the test procedures behind both ratings. The SCOP used in this formula follows the European EN 14825 method, so it is a reference point for comparing data sheets that report seasonal performance on that basis, not a US rating. Technicians who handle refrigerants must hold EPA Section 608 certification. Electrical work follows the National Electrical Code as adopted locally. Heating degree day data for a given location is published by NOAA. For tax credits, the IRS publishes federal rules, while state energy offices and utility programs publish current rebate details. Program rules and funding change frequently, so check the current status before you buy.
Final Check Before You Buy
Use the estimate as a comparison tool. Confirm the final figures against the data sheet of the specific unit, a load calculation for the building, and the electricity rate printed on your own bill.
Frequently asked questions
How much electricity does a heat pump use per year in a two-bedroom condo?
The calculator's example, a 24,000 BTU/h unit (about 7 kW) running 8 hours a day for 140 heating days at a SCOP of 3.5, uses about 2,240 kWh a year. A two-bedroom condo may need less capacity than that, depending on insulation, window area, and how cold the winter is. Run a Manual J load calculation and use your own thermostat history to replace the example values with real ones before you rely on the figure.
What is SCOP, and where do I find the number?
SCOP stands for Seasonal Coefficient of Performance. It is the ratio of heat delivered over a full heating season to the electricity consumed, based on the European EN 14825 method. Look for the seasonal figure on the unit's technical data sheet. In US listings, the equivalent heating figure is HSPF2. If only HSPF2 is shown, divide it by 3.412 to get an approximate seasonal COP, then enter that value as SCOP. The result is an estimate, because the two tests are not identical.
Can a heat pump replace a gas furnace in a US home?
In many homes, yes, particularly where winters are moderate and the building is well insulated. Ducted systems can use the existing ductwork, and ductless systems suit homes without it. Cold-climate models with backup heat handle colder winters, but a home in a very cold region may still need a gas or other backup source. Confirm the required heating capacity with a load calculation rather than assuming it from the old furnace, because the furnace's rating reflects its own output, not the building's current heat loss.
Are there federal or state incentives for installing a heat pump?
Incentives exist, but they change often. Federal tax credits for energy property are set by Congress and administered through the Internal Revenue Service, so check the IRS guidance for the year you install. Many states, and some utilities, run their own rebate programs, often with eligibility based on income or equipment type. Check the current status of each program before signing a contract, because funding can run out and rules can change between the quote and the installation.
Does this calculator estimate cooling costs too?
No. The formula covers heating only, using the heating capacity, the seasonal heating efficiency, and the number of heating days. Cooling uses a different efficiency rating (SEER2 in the United States) and a different set of operating days. For a home that cools heavily, make a separate estimate for cooling using the unit's cooling efficiency and the number of cooling days in your area, then add the two results together.
When should I hire a licensed contractor instead of relying on this estimate?
Hire a licensed HVAC contractor for any installation, and insist on a load calculation before you choose a size. Technicians who handle refrigerants must hold EPA Section 608 certification. Electrical work should be done by a licensed electrician under the locally adopted National Electrical Code. This estimate is useful for comparing options, but it does not check whether the building can accept the equipment, and it does not replace a professional assessment of an older or unusually shaped home.
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By RivoCalc · Reviewed under our editorial methodology · Updated June 4, 2026
These results are estimates. Actual electricity use depends on the equipment, outdoor temperature, insulation, air leakage, thermostat settings, and how the system is operated. Use the calculator to compare options, not as a substitute for a professional load calculation or your own utility bill.
