Kitchen Refit Cost Calculator

How the calculation works

Kitchen refit cost: what drives the budget in the UK

A kitchen refit brings several trades into one small room at the same time: a plumber for the water and waste pipes, an electrician for the sockets and appliance circuits, a tiler, a joiner or kitchen fitter for the units, a plasterer for wall repairs and often a specialist for the worktop. Coordinating those trades in 10 m² is the main reason budgets slip. The sequence matters too: tiling cannot start until plumbing and wiring are in place, and units cannot go in until the tiling is finished.

The calculator reflects this split. The base cost per square metre (b) covers labour and building materials for the room: stripping out, levelling, waterproofing behind the splashback, tiling or flooring, basic plumbing and the supporting electrics. Units (M) and appliances (E) are added on top as separate items. This is why the estimate can be read by component, and why each of those two items can be switched off when existing items are kept.

The three refit types and what each includes

A cosmetic refit is the quickest and least disruptive option. It keeps the existing tiles, floor and units, and focuses on paint suitable for kitchen conditions, replacement handles, under-cabinet lighting and, if needed, a new mixer tap. Choose this type when the layout works and the tiles are in good condition.

A mid-range refit is what most people mean by a kitchen refit. It adds removal of the existing wall tiles, repair of the plaster beneath, levelling of the floor, waterproofing behind the splashback, new tiles or flooring, and replacement units with a new worktop. The cost is driven mainly by the area, the materials chosen and the number of units being replaced.

A full refit covers everything above and also changes the layout: moving the sink or adding a water supply for a dishwasher, adding circuits for an oven and hob, upgrading the consumer unit and, where the walls allow, opening the kitchen to an adjoining room. It is the most expensive type for the same area and finish, because each change to pipework or wiring adds labour and often a second visit from a tradesperson.

Units: the largest variable item

In most mid-range and full refits, units are the largest item after the building work, and they are where price differences between options are greatest.

In the economy band, flatpack ranges sold by large DIY retailers and home furnishing stores are the reference point. A standard layout of about 3.5 linear metres of base and wall units, with a laminate or basic worktop, sits here. Fitting is often done by the buyer or by a fitter at modest cost.

In the mid-range band, solid door ranges and modular systems from kitchen suppliers offer better moisture resistance, more finish options and more size flexibility. Costs rise noticeably for the same length of run.

In the premium band, bespoke units from a joiner or a specialist kitchen designer, with worktops in quartz, granite or solid timber, give full control over layout and materials. Lead times are longer, and the cost is largely a matter of materials and joinery hours.

Whichever band you choose, measure the run in linear metres and include the worktop and fitting. The calculator treats units as one line item, so a quote that prices units, worktop and fitting separately should be added together before comparison.

Appliances: buying as a package or separately

Built-in appliances need dimensions that match the cabinet openings. Buying them together with the units avoids a mismatch between the oven housing and the appliance itself. Appliances fall into three bands: economy ranges with basic functions, mid-range built-in ranges with a better finish and energy performance, and premium makes with the highest finish. Choose on the basis of how you cook and the energy rating label, rather than the name on the front.

Fitting built-in appliances adds trade time that is not included in the appliance price. An oven and hob usually need a dedicated electrical circuit. BS 7671, the IET Wiring Regulations, sets out how that circuit is designed for the appliance's rated load, and a qualified electrician should install it. Gas work must be carried out by a competent person under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998, so a gas hob needs a qualified gas engineer to connect it. A dishwasher or sink connection is plumbing work. These connections belong in the budget.

Items that are often missed from the first budget

Three categories appear repeatedly in UK kitchen refits and often sit outside the first estimate.

First, finishing items: trims between floor coverings, silicone sealant where the worktop meets the wall, skirting, recessed ceiling lights to replace a central pendant, and an access panel for valves and pipework where the new units hide them. Together these add a noticeable sum if they are not planned.

Second, structural surprises: removing old tiles, particularly in older houses, often reveals damaged plaster, damp from a failed seal or pipework that should be replaced while it is accessible. A prudent budget holds an agreed contingency for these, set with your contractor rather than assumed to be unnecessary.

Third, disruption during the work: a full refit can leave the kitchen unusable for several weeks. If there is no second cooking area, budget for meals out or a temporary setup with a microwave, kettle and hot plate.

When building regulations and approvals apply

In England and Wales, most cosmetic and like-for-like refits do not need planning permission or a building regulations application. Several items do, however, and they change the scope of the work:

• Electrical work in dwellings is governed by Part P of the Building Regulations. It must be carried out by a competent person or notified to building control, and work to a new consumer unit is notifiable.
• Structural alterations, such as removing or altering a load-bearing wall, require a design from a qualified structural engineer under Part A of the Building Regulations, and often building control approval.
• Drainage changes to waste pipework fall under Part H.
• Ventilation of the kitchen, including the extractor, is covered by Part F.

Scotland works under the Building (Scotland) Regulations and its building standards, and Northern Ireland has its own building regulations, so check with the local building control team for your area.

If the work affects a shared wall, the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 may apply in England and Wales and require notice to the neighbour. In flats, the lease usually controls alterations to shared walls and pipes, so consent from the freeholder or managing agent may be needed before work starts. If the property is listed, alterations may need listed building consent.

Common mistakes

• Using the area of the whole room rather than the fitted kitchen area. The calculator asks for the interior floor area of the kitchen itself.
• Assuming existing units can be reused when they need to move to a different wall.
• Forgetting waste removal for old units and tiles, and the cost of making good plaster afterwards.
• Comparing quotes that cover different scopes, for example one that includes appliance connections and one that does not.
• Treating appliances as included when they are not, or as separate when a quote has bundled them.

When not to use this calculator

Use a surveyor or architect and get detailed quotes when the layout changes substantially, when an extension or a new soil stack is involved, when the property is listed, or when the kitchen is part of a whole-house project. The calculator gives a planning range based on typical scopes. It is not a substitute for a site survey.

How to use the result

Treat the figure as a planning range rather than a quote. Use it to decide which refit type fits your budget, then compare it with itemised quotes from at least three local tradespeople. If the quotes are consistently higher, check whether the scope, the finish quality or the regional labour rate explains the gap.

Resale is a further consideration. A cosmetic or mid-range refit often suits a home in the middle of its market, because it updates the look without structural work. Premium spend is easier to justify in higher-value properties. A local estate agent can show recent comparable sales to help judge this.

Keep a written record of the refit type, the units and appliance choices, and the scope in each quote. That way any change after the survey can be checked against the original estimate rather than against memory.